The coral reefs along the Marsa Alam coast are  a real treasure trove for the diver.  Here you can get close to spinner dolphins, bottle nose dolphins,  turtles, several species of shark, bumphead parrotfish and the enchanting but endangered Dugong "sea cow," not to mention the myriad varieties of colourful coral.  

These reefs are mostly free from the environmental damage suffered by some further north.  And whereas the dive sites near Sharm and Hurghada suffer from over crowding, the Marsa Alam sites, being further from the larger resorts, can be enjoyed without having to constantly bump into other divers.

The best conditions for diving are during the summer months when the water temperature averages over 30 degrees centigrade although even in January it's a not unpleasant 24 degrees.  Accordingly a 3mm wetsuit is suitable for the period from May to September while a 5mm wetsuit would be more appropriate during the relatively colder months.

The winter months, December to February, also tend to have longer periods with higher wind speeds and rougher seas. 

When planning your trip, be aware that during the months of April and May visibility under water may be adversely affected by the seasonal plankton boom.  Also be aware that Marsa Alam can be a windy location (usually more so than Hurghada), especially during the winter months.  If sleeping on board a boat remember to close those port holes or your vessel will be the next diving attraction !

In our view the best diving sites are

1. Marsa Abu Dabab

Diving depth -  up to 25 metres.
Location -  close to shore - wade in from beach.
                 30km north of Marsa Alam.                
Visibility -   5-20 metres. Best in deeper area.
Suitable -   for all diving levels.

Despite the absence of a coral reef and not infrequent poor visibility, Marsa Abu Dabab is perhaps the most popular of all Marsa Alam's dive sites and for good reason as it is probably the best place to get close to sea turtles and the dugong.   Fortunately the bay has recently been closed to boats making both snorkelling and scuba diving easier and more relaxing. It is also a dive site suitable to all skill levels. 

Don't forget to pay a visit to "Dougal the Dugong".  A Dugong is a large herbivorous marine mammal, brownish or dark grey in colour,  with no dorsal fin or hind limbs but with paddle like forelimbs and a dolphin like tail.  Dugongs love the shallow sheltered waters of Abu Dabab because of the abudance of their favourite food - sea grass.  Consequently they are sometimes refered to as "sea cows."   Sadly, despite having a lifespan of over fifty years,  the Dugong's days may be numbered.  The International Union for Conservation of Nature lists the Dugong as a species threatened with potential extinction.

The shallow surf free waters in the bay are also an excellent location to see large turtles.  These suprisingly large animals are usually happy to allow divers to approach close to them, which makes for a great photo opportunity.   They are often accompanied by remora fish which cling to their shells and help to remove parasites as they feed. 

Guitar sharks also frequent the shallows.  These are an endangered species and one of the world's rarest sharks.  It has bizarre but beautiful looks,  as if a sting ray had been crossed with a real shark, but don't worry, it's not aggressive.  However never touch them as a flip of its' tale could dislodge your mask.

2. Elphinstone Reefs

Diving depth - 20 to 70 metres (60 - 200ft)
Location - 50km north east of Marsa Alam
               and 10km from the shore.
Visibility - 20-30 metres.
Suitable for experienced divers only.

The top of the reef plateau here, some 180 metres long and 20 metres wide, is between 20 and 35 metres deep but at its' edges, the coral plunges to some seventy metres below the surface.  Along its' east walls the drop offs are virtually vertical.  The west drop off is a little less steep and sandier with some overhangs and small caves. 
 
Elphinstone is an excellent choice if you are looking for shark encounters with reports of various frequenting shark species but particularly the large and usually solitary  oceanic whitetip.  Divers report up to four sitings on a single dive.  Please be cautious of this magnificent animal and never feed it.  One diver writes that some of the sharks

"have a tendency to be very curious of divers and from time to time "bump" or "nose" divers, especially near the surface."
( DiveSiteDirectory.co.uk )

The reef attracts an enormous variety of sea life including jacks, tuna, blue lunar fusiliers, black snapper and lone barracuda that watch the reef from a distance.

Legend tells that a large arch at the southern end of the reef, some sixty metres below the surface, contains the sarcophagus of an unknown pharoah and divers have reported a coral encrusted rectangular shape near by.  

Beware that the current, in at least some parts of the reef, is unusual in that it flows from south to north.  It can also be fairly strong. 

As of early 2008, Pioneer Divers (contact details further down) were offering excursions to Elphinstone from 20 euros per person but you might also be charged 15 euro for diving equipment and possibly extra for lunch and if you want your own private guide. 


3. Samadai Reef
   (also known as "Dolphin House" )

Diving depth - 10 to 15 metres (32 - 49 ft)
Location - approx 20km SE of Marsa Alam.
               Suitable for all diving levels.

This reef is one of the most popular as one of the world's most important dolphin habbitats. A large family of around one hundred spinner dolphins have made it their permanent home. 

However,  back in the summer of 2003, a sudden increase in the number of site visitors - between 500 and 800 daily - led to a sudden decline in the dolphin population.

So subsequently access to the reef has been limited to protect the dolphins with buoys in the water to mark separate zones,  with an area for dolphins only, another for divers only, another for snorkellers only and another for mooring boats. Visiting times are also restricted to between 10am and 2pm and the number of ticket permits sold restricted to 100 snorkellers and 100 divers daily.  

The spinner dolphins are a nocturnal animal and return every morning to the shallow waters of the reef to rest. Visitors are discouraged from feeding or playing with the dolphins as it is not natural for them and may cause distress.

The reef itself is crescent shaped with a small lagoon of sand and sea-grass within, which is rich in marine life including the usually elusive sea horses.  Divers can also explore some underwater caves and at least twelve coral towers.   You should only explore the caves with an experienced guide. 

As of early 2008, Pioneer Divers (contact details further down) were offering excursions to Samadai from 55 euros per person but you may also be charged 15 euro for diving equipment and 5 euro for lunch/drinks and 15 euro if you want your own private dive guide. 

4. Abu Dabab Reefs

Diving depth - 15 to 25 metres
Visibility - 20 to 30 metres.

These lie a few miles out to sea from Marsa Abu Dabab (see above).  Averaging 15 to 25 metres in depth these are fairly shallow.   You can dive down to the wreckage of a small ship which sunk after a fire in 2004.  Dolphins frequent the area and although you won't always see them,  they have been known to spend up to 10 minutes at a time with divers.  You can also explore the beautiful coral garden and an underwater cave system.

There are six reefs in total, and the name "Abu Dabab" can be translated as Father's stepping stones. According to local mythology, when an earthquake struck it was because the Gods were using the stones to cross the sea.  

Diving Trip Operators

Emperor Divers offer day trips to all the above dive sites as well as PADI and BSAC diving courses.

See their website www.emperordivers.com

They are based at the Coral Beach Diving Hotel in Port Ghalib -

tel: +20 12 7372126
or email marsa.alam@emperordivers.com

Oonasdivers offer once weekly liveaboard cruises of the  Red Sea reefs off the Marsa Alam coastline from Port Ghalib every Wednesday.   They also offer a dive-camp at Wadi Lahami, some 140km south of Marsa Alam.  They are most suited to the experienced diver. 

Email: info@oonasdivers.com
Website: www.oonasdivers.com
tel: Tel: 0044 (0)1323 648924

Pioneer Divers offer daily trips to the Marsa Abu Dabab, Elphinstone and Samadai Reefs.  They also offer PADI and CMAS diving courses.

They are based at the Kharamana Beach Resort.

tel: +20-195-100 262
or email info@redsea-divingsafari.com


Best place to stay ?

We would recommend Al Nada Resort, a beautifully designed new hotel with very friendly staff and just a few minutes drive from either Marsa Abu Dabab beach or Port Ghalib marina.  To book phone Seifein Shafik on 0184 332 337 or use the Contact Us page and mark Forward to Al Nada Resort and you should have a reply within 48 hours.  For more information on this resort please see our Al Nada Resort page.

Stuck at Marsa Alam airport ?

If you need a cheap limousine, taxi service or car rental at any time phone Seifein Shafik on + 20 184 332 337.

He has many types of car as well as people carriers available in
Marsa Alam, Hurghada, Luxor, Cairo and Sharm El Sheikh.